19 Bella Tapas BYOB Restaurant

How Lima shed its dangerous reputation to become South America’s greatest city for food

How Lima shed its dangerous reputation to become South America's greatest city for food

Author Chris Moss of The Telegraph says “I’d never have thought cows’ hearts could look so appetising. The meat was rich, textured like tongue and a bit chewy. The overboiled spuds reminded me of childhood Sunday dinners. The glass of chicha morada, a purple corn beverage, was comforting, like cough mixture. The venue, El Tio Mario – Uncle Mario’s – was an upmarket canteen, functional, family oriented, the décor just a bit too orange.

In fact, anticuchos – cows’ hearts – are a classic of Peruvian cuisine, and have their aficionados. But my delight was contrastive. Following a week in Lima I was midriff-swellingly sated on fine dining. After a glut of refined, sometimes rarefied, lunches and dinners, a plate of offal was both comfort food and penance.

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